PLANTS
Butterfly Garden
Erosion Control
Fruit, Berries, Nuts
Grasses
Ground Cover
Hummingbird Garden
Parasitic Plants
Peppers, Chilies
Shrubs
Tomatoes
Trees: Landscape
Vines
Wildflowers
ON THE WEB
Gardening Organizations
Links: Garden-Related
Nurseries
GARDENING HOW-TO'S
Dealing with Critters
Digging Holes for Plants
Fruit: Selection, Cultivation
Garden Bed: Sterilizing
Microclimates
Mulching
Oracle: Weather, Wildflowers
Plant Placement
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Selecting Plants: SE Arizona
Seeds: Planting
Soil Preparation
USDA Hardiness Zones
Watering
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Watering
- Drip watering plants is not recommended in hot summer areas. Drip watering causes
roots of plants to grow close to the ground surface where they will become
baked by the summer sun.
- Instead of drip watering, deep soak every one, two, three or four weeks.
This means letting a hose run for 30 minutes to three hours until the ground
is soaked to a depth of at least 3 feet. Force an iron or steel rod with a handle
into the ground to test the depth that the water has reached.
- The frequency of deep watering depends upon the age of the plant. Plants in
the ground less than one year will need weekly watering in the spring, summer and
first half of fall. Plants in the ground over three years may need deep watering
only once a month during the warm season, and much less in winter. Allow the
soil to dry out between soakings so air can get to the roots.
- Watering frequency also varies by species. Some plants go
dormant in summer heat and cannot tolerate water during this period.
Other plants need more frequent watering in summer months. Check a
recommended gardening book describing your plant
and its water needs.
- See Planting and Watering Trees
for information on trees.
Mulching
- Mulch is placed on top of the soil to keep it moist and insulated from
temperature extremes of hot and cold. Mulch may be put down anytime.
Clear the area of weeds first, and consider putting down a commercial
weed barrier (porous landscape cloth) next to the soil to keep the area
weed free. Cover that with mulch.
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Shredded bark, straw, sawdust, composted mulch and aged compost
can be used. Compost and composted mulch will add long-term
acidity to the soil through rain and watering.
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Make the mulch layer 1" deep. Keep mulch away from the root
crown and trunk of the plant to prevent disease and excess moisture
on the bark that invites critters to nibble. Deep mulch allows
rodents to build nests and hide.
- If the ground is very dry, water the plant deeply before adding mulch.
Solarizing / Sterilizing the Garden Bed
If you had a problem the previous growing season with mites,
nematodes, fruitworms, fungal diseases, or weeds, solarizing
is a cheap, easy, and environmentally friendly way to sterilize
the soil. Using a clear plastic tarp and sunlight, many pests
and weed seeds can be killed by high temperature. It will, also,
kill earthworms if they cannot burrow deeper into the soil.
Obviously, the fewer the clouds, and the higher the sun in the
sky, the more effective this technique becomes. Do this two
months before planting a new crop.
- Rake and level the garden bed. Remove any plants, roots and rocks.
- Water the bed evenly and deeply.
- Cover the moist garden bed with clear, 1- to 2-mil, plastic tarp. This will help
sunlight most fully penetrate the soil. The tarp should extend
to the sides where it can be weighed down with a 2x4" frame or rocks. Do not use thicker
tarp or black tarp.
- Let the tarp stay in place for 8 weeks.
- Covering the first tarp, lying on the soil, with a second tarp 3 inches above it,
sealing in a pocket of air, will significantly increase the temperature and extend warming
further into evening hours. A 2x4" frame can be used to provide the separation
and seal the sides.
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Clematis ligusticifolia: Virgin's Bower
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